History of the region
The history of the region in the easternmost part of the Czech Republic is closely connected with the Wallachian colonization.
As part of this long-term process, which affected the entire outer arc of the Carpathians from Romania, through Ukraine, the present-day Slovak-Polish border to northeastern Moravia, the settlement of the mountain and foothill areas of the Moravian-Silesian and Silesian Beskydys began as early as the end of the 15th century.
At that time, the area was mountainous and heavily forested with infertile soil and relatively unfavorable weather conditions for agriculture. It was sparsely populated and settled by people who fled to this inhospitable region from the surrounding lowlands and cities and tried to make a living from farming in the valley. These people were tied to the land, tried to grow agricultural crops and raised sheep and other cattle for milk and meat.
Nomads from the Balkans came here - the Wallachians with a completely different lifestyle. They were mainly engaged in herding flocks of sheep on mountain and foothill meadows and raised sheep exclusively for milk. They then made cheese and other products from it. The Wallachians were thus not tied to the land and thus enjoyed more freedom than the local residents, who were subjects of the local lords and had to "work as slaves". The Wallachians only rented land for pastures and wandered from place to place. The toleration of certain freedoms of the newly arrived Wallachians was based on the economic interest of the nobility - not only did the Wallachians use uninhabited and unsuitable locations for agriculture, they also paid for the rent. Therefore, the nobility wanted to keep them permanently and motivated them with certain privileges and supported the self-governing bodies of the Wallachians.
These aspects led to the massive development of mountain colonization in the Cieszyn region. Gradually, new clearings were created, in the subsequent fertilization of which the local population began to participate along with the Wallachians, which continued to increase, as more and more people continued to flee from the overpopulated lowlands to the mountainous areas. More permanent settlement and gradual mixing of the Wallachians with the local population occurred from the second half of the 16th century.
New villages at that time often did not arise by "foundation", as is known from other localities, but by the opposite process. In the places of later villages, shepherds originally only rented meadows, lived in huts and only later began to build more permanent dwellings, which laid the foundation for new villages.
Although the assimilation of the Wallachians with the local population was relatively rapid, even at the beginning of the 18th century the Wallachians were able to maintain their distinctive character and the freedoms granted by the Cieszyn nobility. They had their own self-government, headed by the Wallachian voivode, and even a Wallachian court. The voivode had, for example, the authority to control individual pastures, forests and supervise the sheepfolds with the gamekeepers. The function of the voivode was not hereditary, they were based in Mosty u Jablunkov, Bocanovice, Návšie or Wisła (today's Poland) and were originally supposed to defend the interests of the Wallachians against the nobility. Gradually, the Cieszyn princes granted the voivodes greater privileges in order to commit them more to promoting their own interests. An example is the permit granted to the foreman Jan Jebastys of Mosty u Jablunkova, on the basis of which he obtained freehold of the land and the mill from 1633. (This historical event had an influence much later (1790) on the construction of the wooden house on the foreman's estate in Mosty u Jablunkova; the wooden house, in its current reconstructed form (2008) houses the Gorol Tourist Information Center, which also deals with the promotion of original Gorol customs).
The result of the mixing of two colonization influences (the local population "fleeing" from the lowlands and the nomadic Wallachians from Romania) is the beginning of the development of mountain pastoral farming, which became the basis of the existence of the Silesian Gorols - hard-working and hard-working people from the mountainous environment of the Beskydy Mountains with deeply rooted elements of freedom.
The territory of Cieszyn Silesia was shaped by its specific location near the Jablunkov Pass. With its altitude of 550–605 m above sea level and geomorphological structure, the Jablunkov Pass is the most suitable place for crossing the mountain range of the northeastern Carpathians, and thanks to this, trade and military routes have been running here since ancient times. From time immemorial, a route has run through it, which in ancient times was called "amber" (amber was transported from the Baltic Sea to the south), in the Middle Ages "copper" (copper was transported from the Central Slovak ore mines to the north to Hamburg and further by sea). Even later, Silesian merchants - carters - traveled here, and at that time it was called "furmaněc". The importance of the Jablunkov Pass for commercial purposes is also confirmed by the Košice-Bohumín railway (built 1868-1872), which still provides a large part of the transport of goods today.
With a view to protecting this route and later also defending the principality (the Jablunkov Pass is on the border of the former Silesia and Hungary) against raids from the south, a unique system of fortifications was built on the southern and southeastern border of Silesia, referred to in military terminology as "Šance".
Traditional life of the Goroli
From the time of the settlement of the mountain pastures by the Wallachians, a number of original elements from the beginning of colonization survived into the lives of the subsequent inhabitants - the Goroli (after the Wallachians assimilated with the local population). In the early days of settlement, shepherds grazed their herds on the mountain pastures - clearings between the forests. Here they built simple shelters for themselves - huts and fenced off the places where the sheep spent the night - koshors - with wooden planks. The koshors gradually moved from place to place. Gradually, the huts began to be built of stone, they used shingles split from wood for the roofs and placed an open fireplace (fireplace) inside with a cauldron for boiling sheep's milk for making cheese. The shepherds used wooden utensils made by themselves. An interesting fact is that the utensils were not carved from high-quality wood, but were made directly from cut tree trunks. They used old trunks or pulp that were already starting to rot inside, hollowed out the inside and thus obtained a cylinder, which they provided with a bottom. In this way, various types and sizes of utensils were created.
In later times, the Goroli no longer lived permanently in huts on the mountain pastures, but built houses at lower elevations and regularly drove their cattle out to pasture. The basic crops grown by the Goroli were oats, spring rye, clover, grasses, flax, cabbage and potatoes. Flax cultivation was the basis for the production of linen. In domestic animal husbandry, cows, pigs and, above all, sheep prevailed, which supplied raw materials for the production of clothing.
A number of interesting customs and traditions are associated with the spring driving out and autumn gathering of sheep to the sheepfold, and they are currently being revived in Cieszyn Silesia. On the Czech side of the region, these are promotional matters - interesting events are being created for locals and tourists. On the Polish side of the region (Koniaków, Istebna), shepherding is gradually being revived and customs are once again becoming "daily bread", not just forgotten history. In the spring, when the last snow had melted in the mountains, the sheep were driven out to the sheepfold in the village. The sheep were collected from individual owners in one place, mixed together and then the shepherd - bača took them to graze on the sheepfold in the mountains. The traditional custom is called "Miyszani łowiec" in the local dialect and is associated with a number of interesting customs. In the Těšín region, a “replica” of this custom takes place every year in May in the village of Košařiska and is associated with a craft fair, performances by folklore bands, good food and drink. At the end of September, around St. Michael’s Day, sheep and other livestock were brought down from the mountain huts to the village and were again divided among the owners. The traditional custom is called “Rozsod” in the local dialect and is held again in the Těšín region in September in the village of Košařiska. Sheep from about 20-30 owners were driven to each hut. Depending on the number of sheep that the owner had there (5-25), he then received cheese from the shepherd. The sheep were usually milked 3 times a day and the cheese produced was strictly recorded so that it could then be divided fairly. At the end of summer, the milk used to be fuller, so they made bryndza from it, which they then sold to the cities.
The end of the mountain farming is associated with the 19th century, when the Cieszyn lordship began to restore forests due to the greater need for wood for iron production. The first blast furnace for iron production was lit in Třinec in 1839. In order to have enough wood, laws and regulations even came into force in the first half of the 19th century that prohibited grazing sheep in forests. The mountain farms were gradually afforested and pastoralism gave way to heavy industry. New livelihood opportunities, “simpler” earnings and a more modern life opened up for the Gorols. This change in lifestyle alone had a great influence on the further development of cultural traditions and Gorol culture. Another milestone was the construction and commissioning of the Košice-Bohumín Railway in 1871. Originally it was a single-track line with one tunnel under the Jablunkov Pass, from 1898 there were already two tracks and a second tunnel. The railway increased the mobility of the population, traditional crafts that were linked to iron production - coal mining, carriage making - began to decline. People moved more to work in the emerging Třinec Ironworks and lost their connection with the land in their native village, the traditional appearance of mountain villages began to change, both economically, culturally and socially.
The houses in which the Gorols lived were built of wooden beams and had a gable roof. Split shingles were used as roofing. The original houses had only one space inside - a living room, where all family life was concentrated. The center was an open fireplace. Gradually, ovens began to be built, and in front of them a table-wide fireplace covered with clay (nolepa) was built, where cooking was done - a cauldron was hung on a tripod above the fire. First, a fire was made of beech wood in the oven and hot charcoal was then dug out onto the nolepa, where cooking was done. An interesting thing was that the oven did not have a chimney, but the smoke was led into the room and out through the door. Therefore, the cottages were called "kurné chaty" or also "kurloky". In the room, a table was placed in the corner, which once always had a stone top, and around it were benches that were used for sleeping at night. For additional seating, the Gorol people made stools from samorosts, and later chairs with decorated backrests were created. There were shelves (logs) by the stove, on which homemade dishes and tools were stored and hung, and the farmer's bed stood in the corner. The floor was made of rammed earth and the threshold was made of a high beam so that it would not be drafty in the room. The room was the only place where it was heated, even in times when houses had more rooms. All life was concentrated here. In harsh winters, people even took their domestic animals, especially young ones, into the room so that they would not freeze. It is not surprising, after all, livestock was the most valuable thing that people had at that time.
The clothing and costumes of the Goroles have retained many elements that are very similar to those of other Carpathian and Balkan highlanders. The men's costume consisted of a loose, collarless linen shirt decorated with a cross-stitched embroidery (brand) at the chest slit, a black vest (bruclík), narrow trousers made of white cloth and a coarse brown cloth tunic made from a single rectangular piece of fabric. Cloth or woolen knitted socks called kopyca and leather krpcce were worn on the feet. The calves were laced with twisted woolen cords (notunča). The Gorole wore a wide felt hat or a sheepskin hat on his head. In winter, the costume could be supplemented with a fur coat, decorated with colorful pieces of leather knitted on the front.
Everyday and festive clothing of Gorol women differed only in the quality of the fabrics. The underwear consisted of a long sleeveless linen shirt, the so-called časnocha, which completely covered the upper part of the body. Over it, the women wore a short white shirt (cabotek) made of thin homespun linen. The lower part of the clothing consisted of two aprons. A black apron made of coarse homespun linen, heavily pleated, was worn from the back. An apron (modřiněc) was worn from the front, initially white, later dyed blue, later with a printed ornament. The costume was complemented by long knitted stockings (nogavički) made of red wool. The panties had to be long enough, because they were worn rolled up to create a thicker layer and the women did not get cold. The Gorol women also wore cloth or knitted socks on their feet and leather krpce were used as footwear. Single girls went without a head covering and braided their hair. Married women covered their heads with a white netted cap with a lace headband. A married woman received the cap on her wedding day, the so-called "bridal cap" was part of the traditional wedding. A scarf made of fine homemade linen was tied to the cap and the scarves were decorated with small cross-stitch embroidery in black or red. The outer clothing was a large sheet made of three-ply twill woven on a homemade loom or a tablecloth made of finer linen or damask. In winter, short sheepskin coats were also worn.
An important part of Gorol life was culture and art. In every house there lived at least one person who was engaged in folk art, initially out of necessity, later also just for fun. An example is the already mentioned production of wooden utensils and instruments, embroidered or crocheted decorations on costumes, etc. Music also played an important role in the lives of mountain dwellers. It was connected both with the mountain farming method in this region and with customs. Typical trumpets, horns, bagpipes, whistles, and fujarkas were the work of local self-taught craftsmen, although the production of these instruments was not easy. Shepherds used them not only for their own entertainment and spiritual pleasure, but also as a means of communication with other shepherds or people in the village. A special musical instrument was the Gajda (similar to the Czech bagpipes), and their production was not a simple matter. Anyone who wanted to make a bagpipe had to master several techniques: they had to master working with wood, metal, horn, and leather. Fortunately, even today there are still people alive - folk artists who can create beautiful crafts. Visitors can meet them at various fairs and cultural events, their works are available in regional shops.
Address: Mosty u Jablunkova 381
email:
phone: +420 558 341 586
Jablunkov Šance
History of fortifications on the Czech-Polish-Slovak border.
The Jablunkov Pass forms the easiest crossing from south to north in the Beskydy ridge. Since time immemorial, a trade route has run through it, which in ancient times was called the Amber Route. In the Middle Ages, it was called the "copper route", because it transported copper ores from Slovak deposits to Silesia and then further west. Even later, Silesian merchants traveled through it, and at that time it was called the "cartway". However, the trail was used not only by merchants, but also by armies. Usually, during times of war, they headed towards the borders of enemy countries with the desire to conquer them.
The Battle of Mohács in 1526 was of fundamental importance for the creation of the defensive ramparts called Jablunkov Šance. The King of Bohemia and Hungary, Louis Jagiellon, died there and the Principality of Cieszyn fell to the Habsburgs. It was also the beginning of the Turkish expansion into Central Europe.
The oldest mention of the so-called Old Šance dates back to January 13, 1578 and was written by the Cieszyn Prince Wenceslas III. Adam. The remains of this fort are located in the present-day territory of the municipality of Svrčinovec. The Great Šance in Mosty u Jablunkova was built in 1621 and was originally garrisoned by imperial mercenaries recruited from Naples, Italy. However, they behaved so barbarically towards the local population and the surrounding area that they had to be recalled and replaced by men from the surrounding villages, the so-called chosen ones, who served there as mercenaries. Among them were also the Most highlanders.
In the 1640s, smaller forts were also built in Hrčava and in Polish Koniaków, which were connected to the Most forts by support lines called redoubts. The fortification in Polish Koniaków was probably made up of a fortified rampart and an outer ditch. The fortification has a trapezoidal ground plan. A military camp – lager (from the German language) was located near the redoubt. The name of the local part “Koniaków Legiery” was probably derived from this word.
The Great Fort went through several reconstructions during its existence. An important reconstruction took place in 1663, when the Turks declared another war on the Habsburg Empire. At that time, the reconstruction lasted less than 100 days and the Great Fort acquired its typical star-shaped ground plan. After the Battle of Vienna in 1683, where the Turkish troops were crushed, the military importance of the fort diminished.
During the Austro-Prussian Wars, in 1741–1763, the Great fort was occupied by the Prussian army, which surpassed its Austrian opponents in both technology and, above all, iron discipline. Since the fort was located far from the center of the fighting, the Prussian army never stayed there for long
The last significant reconstruction of the Great fort took place in 1808–1809 and its original appearance has been preserved to this day.
After 1848, the Great fort was abandoned as an obsolete and unnecessary fortification system. In 1890, the municipality of Mosty bought it for 800 Rhine gold. The fort gradually fell into disrepair and was abandoned. People used stones from the fortifications to build houses and also for the last reconstruction of the chapel in 1889.
Tip for a trip
Following the traces of the historical fortifications - 10 km
The starting point is Šance in Mosty u Jablunkova (CZ). Continue along the green trail, it will lead you to the "old šance" on the Slovak side of the border. Then go through the village of Milošová, where you can make a short detour to the U jeleňa inn. Then continue past the water reservoir to the former quarry in a locality called Megoňky with a unique attraction - stone balls. The stone balls (gules) in Megoňky are peeled from the surrounding bedrock and have an ovoid or round shape with a diameter of up to 2.6 m. They were discovered in 1988 during stone mining and the question of their origin remains unanswered to this day. The blue trail will take you back to the Czech side, past the pub in Šance and the outdoor playground, and back to the slopes here.
Around Mount Ochodzita - 10 km
Start your trip in Koniaków (PL), at Piotr Kohut's Na Szańcach hut. This is where the so-called Volská šance used to be. After visiting the hut, buying sheep's cheese and regional products, follow the yellow trail past the "Chaty Szance" with a gallery and a stylish restaurant. The yellow trail leads from the south past the dominant Mount Ochodzita, on whose slopes sheep graze like in the old days. After connecting to the blue trail, turn left, later across the main road to "Koczy Zamek". Legend has it that the Hungarian Count Kocsi lived here, who left his family so that he would not have to marry according to his father's will. He found the poor and lovely Gorolka from Koniaków. When the father found out, he was furious and had his daughter-in-law kidnapped. She died in an accident and the young count then killed his father in a duel. Out of grief, he set fire to the castle and never returned. But you go back to the main road and up to the parking lot in front of the wooden hotel. From there, take the path to the Ochodzíte peak with its magnificent views. You can reach the starting point of the trip by going downhill along the main road.
Did you know?
In 1766, the future Emperor Joseph II visited the great Šance. He inspected the entire defense system of the Jablunkov Pass, and since he found it seriously damaged after the Prussian wars, he himself took care of the repair of the Jablunkov Šance. This repair was completed four years later, and the Šance were at their most beautiful at that time.
You can find a wooden carved model of the Šance in the Gorolský Tourist Information Center in the center of the village of Mosty u Jablunkov.
How did history go?
Mentions of the years 1529 and 1541 (1543) about defensive works in the pass
1578 - the first documented construction of the fortress
1621 - the embankments and construction of the Great Šance
1626-1629 - repairs and construction of the Šance
1638 - the destruction of the Šance by Hungarian rebels
1642, 1644-1645 - the restoration and expansion of the fortifications in the pass
1645 - mentions of the Šance Hrčava
1663-1664 - reconstructions of the Great and Small Šance
1678 – creation of Volská Šance (Koniaków), repairs of existing fortresses
1820s - 1830s reconstruction of Great Šance, construction of several communication redoubts
1870s - 1880s reconstruction of Small Šance, construction of communication redoubts and redans
1808-1810 - reconstruction of Great Šance
1836 - transfer of Great Šance to the property of the Těšín Chamber
1848 - removal from the fortification system
1890 - purchase of land by the municipality of Mosty u Jablunkova
Visitor's Center for Fortifications Šance
Mosty u Jablunkova 1165
Contact: +420 596 412 068
email:
web: www.opevneni-sance.cz
Mosty u Jablunkova
Located in the Jablunkov Pass between mountain ranges Moravian-Silesian Beskydy and Silesian Beskydy with excellent transport accessibility: international roads, border crossings, international railway line. The village was founded 600 to 700 years ago on an important trade route connecting Silesia with Hungary.
From that time, the remains of Šance have been preserved in the village, serving as a fortification against the invasions of the Turks and Tatars. Currently, the fortification is undergoing reconstruction and the ground plan, walls, ditches, remains of the foundations of the original barracks and individual parts of the fortress are clearly visible. In close proximity to the fortress, a Visitor Center has been built with an interactive exhibition that introduces visitors to the history of the Šance fortification system in an unconventional, novel and entertaining way. The fortification offers beautiful views.
Athletes have access to football and volleyball fields, tennis courts, a gym, a weight room and two multifunctional playgrounds. Swimming enthusiasts will welcome the opportunity to visit the summer swimming pool right in the center of the village. Mosty is the starting point for tourist routes to Studeničná, Gírová or the main ridge of the Moravian-Silesian Beskydy Mountains starting from Skalka, Severka and Velký Polom. The area attracts visitors all year round with its attractions in the local Ski Resort (bungee trampolines, a 650 m long bobsleigh track, pump track and other attractions).
In winter, Mosty u Jablunkova offers good conditions for skiers - downhill slopes right in the center of the village with lighting, snowmaking and a four-seater chairlift, which is also in operation in the summer season. For cross-country skiers, there are groomed cross-country trails in the area with a total length of 44 km and a lighted circuit in the immediate vicinity of the Ski Resort.